Raiatea
& Tahaa
March 11th, 12 & 13th
Photos by Ellen - 5th
time Visitor to Tahiti
Travelogue by Paula - First time Visitor to Tahiti
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After our island inspection on Raiatea, Giuliano, the owner of La Pirogue, was waiting for us at the harbor dock in Uturoa with a motor boat to transfer us on the 30 minute journey to the motu just off the island of Tahaa . The trip was all the more exciting due to a sudden downpour which was just a taste of things to come. No sooner had the rain begun than it stopped, and in the few moments that followed on our arrival at the hotel the sun was once again in full blaze. We were greeted by Severine, Giuliano's partner at La Pirogue and his wife. Originally from Switzerland, this dynamic team has realized their dream this past year of opening their paradise property of four garden and four beach bungalows. The property also includes a reception lounge area where Severine pours very wicked tropical cocktail concoctions, which will levitate you to the dining building where Giuliano performs culinary magic. Our award for the best entrée and desert of our journey goes to chef Giuliano. We never looked at the menu and simply asked Giuliano to surprise us and that he did in spades. Ellen had local reef fish with vanilla sauce from the vanilla plants of Tahaa and I had shrimp provencale. His coconut tart was out of this world, and of course the coconuts were picked right outside the kitchen door. Adding to this extraordinary meal was that it was served on the famous French Aplico dinnerware.
La Pirogue is a setting that inspires true peace and relaxation. One could simply sit for hours on the bungalow deck and gaze at the emerald waters and the distant island of Tahaa or take quite walks to the ocean side of the motu. We were treated to another brief afternoon tempest which came straight across the lagoon and with it a regular visitor, a hawk who found refuge to dry his soaked feathers on the little pier that adjoined the beachfront. The grand finale came in the middle of the night. There is nothing like the sound of a hard pounding rain on a thatched roof fare and the force of the wind blowing through the fully opened, but curtained entrance from the deck into the bungalow. The tropical rainfall at San Francisco’s Fairmount Hotel’s Tonga Room doesn’t come close.
Highlight of the day: The five star dining experience at La Pirogue. Since there are no other dining options on the motu you will not be disappointed. And if there were, it would be impossible to pass up on a beautifully prepared and presented meal from chef Giuliano.
The next morning Giuliano, shuttled us over to a neighboring motu, Vahine Island, to have a site inspection with Eric, the general manager, and to enjoy a lovely breakfast prepared by his wife Nicole, who was an executive chef in Paris before they came to the South Pacific. Simply stated Vahine Island offers a very serene and romantic experience. The grounds are covered with soft green grass and swaying palms line the turquoise green waters of the lagoon. Eric is the master builder and has plans for enlarging the beach bungalows this year. His artistic touches are every where in the charming and comfortable rustic fares. We particularly enjoyed his use of shell and coral mosaic tiling for borders in the bathrooms. As the only structures on the motu are those of the hotel, the spell of the private island is all the more enchanting.
In addition to beach front bungalows, there are three over water bungalows each decorated with glass topped coffee tables that lift up to feed the parade of colorful fish. With over 50 species of coral fish in the Tahaa area you are bound to have a show of color and activity. Ellen stayed here two years ago and was very pleased to see the newest developments of a small gift shop and activity center as well as the extensions of the decks of the overwater bungalows. Ellen was also looking forward to Nicole’s exceptional culinary talents. She treated us with her specialties of homemade yogurt, croissants and jams with a selection of fresh grapefruit, bananas and papaya all grown on Vahine. The lounge and restaurant are open-air and our breakfast was all the more special while enjoying the breeze and a lovely view of Tahaa.
