Setting the mood for what was to come was the ambiance of the Air Tahiti Nui aircraft, with Gauguin’s colorful artwork hung on bulk head walls, the interior color scheme of vibrant turquoise and teal and quick tempo Tahitian music filling the air. All topped off with impeccable service and a genuine feeling of being welcomed guests not just passengers.

We arrived in Papeete just after sunset and wow what a shock to our winter weary bodies as we left the air conditioned airplane to be met with a blast of the humidity and heat of 80 some degree. As we waited for our connecting flight to Moorea we cooled down with a couple of Hinanos, the local beer. A real blast of a different type was the 10 minute flight in the pitch dark to Moorea in a 20 passenger prop plane. Arriving at our hotel the Moorea Pearl Resort, we were warmly greeted with fragrant tiare flower leis and a traditional welcoming fruit drink. We were definitely ready to relax in our Premiere Garden Bungalow with our own plunge pool and prepare for the full day ahead of us.

Moorea known as Aimeo i te rara varu

Day 2: Today we had our first look at the mythical “Bali Hai” with her shallow turquoise blue/green lagoon while circling the steep vertical drop cliffs of the collapsed volcanic crater. Truly a hikers paradise! Sharing his love of the island was Eloy a resident of nine years, originally from Guadalajara, Mexico now working as a guide for Moorea Explorer. Eloy lead us and our international group of three couples from Venezuela, Italy and The Chech Republic on a 4X4 off road exploration.

We visited two majestic view points in the mountains and the Lycée Agricole (Agricultural School) in Opunohu Valley, which offered a great over view of island fruits & vegetables flowers as well as decorative and medicinal plants. At their refreshment stand we sampled an array of tropical fruit jams and the most insanely delicious ice cream we have ever tasted. The most exotic was tiare flower flavored and seems to be unique to the school. Raving about this flavor, to several food professionals that we met on other islands, they had never heard of it. Other flavors included pineapple, coconut, passion fruit, vanilla and coffee all made from the plants grown in the school gardens. We also visited a pineapple field and archeological site . For those who want a more in depth experience all day walking tours of the ancient sites and the pineapple plantation fields can be arranged. Telling Eloy we were looking for more of an insiders experience he took us to his favorite Snack restaurant for baguette sandwiches. Here we began to take note that it is possible to have alternative dinning experiences at very reasonable prices. Ellen had a marinated vegetable and cheese sandwich with a killer marinade and I had one of delectably tasty chicken and spicy onion. Price – approx $8 a piece.

Our evening excursion took us to the Tiki Village for an outdoor dinner and show extravaganza featuring a traditional meal cooked in an oven dug in the earth, called ahima'a from ahi (fire) and ma'a (food). We dined on Fei (cooked banana), Uru (Breadfruit), Taro (a root vegetable), Fafa (a chicken with spinach dish), Pua (pork), Poe (fruit baked in coconut milk), and an international buffet with grilled meats and fish and a array of desserts. Complimentary wine was set on each table. Spectacular dancing, featuring the legends of the Polynesian culture were very exciting and the fire dance is worth the price of admission alone. In addition there were demonstrations in how to open a coconut with your bare hands, dozens of ways to tie a pareo (sarong) and a hands-on black pearl cultivation. Our fellow audience members clearly were enthralled by the spectacle and we exchanged email addresses with all of the people seated at our large round table.

Highlight of the day: As we were rounding a bay with Eloy I thought either we had passed through a time warp in the off and on mist of the rain or I was reading too much Melville, for sailing towards us was the replica of Captain Cook’s 18th Century sailing ship, the Endeavour. It was sailing into the Bay of Opunohu and Tahitians dressed in authentic clothing of the era were sailing out to greet the strangers in their outriggers. The poor Tahitians were nearly naked and the gale of wind and rain had to be freezing as they struggled against the elements to recreate the historic first contact. The Endeavour began it’s return journey from England on November 4, 2004 and is scheduled to arrive back in Australian on April 18, 2005 and just by luck it arrived for the day while we were touring the island. It was surreal to say the least.