Chick Trip Diary A Non-stop adventure: Three Days Around the Calchaquies Valleys

Departing from our Hosteria in the town of Chicoana in the Lerma Valley, our host and expedition leader Martin Pekarek kept us in a state of perpetual awe and amazement. Not only did he provide us with a world of information about the natural environment but the cultural and social life of the variety of the communities along our route as well. From the lone ravine side dwellings of the Gauchos to the exquisite bodegas (wineries) of the wine makers of Cafayate, we were immersed in vistas that were simply breath taking.

The first day of our expedition we ascended the Quebrada de Escopipe (The Escoipe Canyon), climbing to the clouds and beyond we stopped every mile to take panoramic photographs of the multi-colored hills of rich red earth and deep green vegetation with a meandering river far below. Picture the Grand Canyon with tropical foliage. The only other visitors who were taking in the beauty were the circling condors, flocks of parrots, eagles and hawks and a lone mountain biker peddling a good length of Argentina.

As Martin promised the views only got better the higher we climbed. Our awaiting reward was Valley Encantado (The Enchanted Valley.) The geological upheaval of the ribbons of coral, pink, orange and red sandstone formations in the foreground with snowcapped Andes on the far distant horizon can only be described as picture post card perfect.

The splendor of the high desert opened before us in vast ranges of giant cactus as we headed into Los Cardones National Park. Here was an endless landscape of towering cactus, some 20 plus feet high. Imagine having an entire National Park to your self! There are no pre-selected turnouts with a jumble of cars and harried tourists anxious to return to snack stands. Federal funding doesn’t exist for the typical visitors center and adjoining souvenir shops. Although there is a Park Ranger who makes the rounds he is not available to lead interpretive hikes or campfire slide shows. We had the sense of what it must have been like to experience the natural heritage of the land before the commercialization and over development, as has been the experience with our own National Park system.

The town of Cachi was our stop for a lunch of a local favorite, roasted goat, accompanied by the very spicy Chimichurri sauce, a required condiment for the Asado, (roasted meat), oven fresh bread with Cafayate, a semi-soft cheese produced in the Province of Salta and a, refreshing Dutch beer. Vegetarians will be surprised to learn that dinning options far exceed the perception of Argentineans as a strictly carnivore population. Fresh vegetables and fruits are abundant on every menu as well as, a variety of salads, squash, potato, and egg dishes.

Chicaonas Indians made Cachi their home long before Spanish control. The town’s anthropological museum provides a good interpretation of the Pre-Columbian culture and an impressive array of artifacts. The similarity of technologies and decorative features of the pottery and arrowheads found in the Salta region will intrigue any one who has visited similar museums in the Four Corners area of the United States. Across the plaza the museum is a typical adobe church with an unusual ceiling constructed entirely of cactus wood. Due to their remote locations the churches along our route serve mainly as community gathering centers, however, the priest from Chicoana is available for hire to perform communion, baptisms, weddings or funerals.

The weaver community of Seclantas should be your next stop. In this town long looms are used to create the fire red ponchos/blankets of the Gauchos. Smaller works such as decorative wall hangings and satchels are easier to fit into the spare suitcase. The wools are an assortment of goat, sheep and lama and the dyes are natural. We purchased a wall hanging depicting the earth goddess Cachi. Come by and see her at the agency.

For those looking for a first-class vacation destination, take a west turn a few miles past Molinos, a historic 17th Century town, towards Colomé. Here Napa Valley wine grower Donald Hess is developing the world’s highest vineyards. A March 2003 opening is planned for the exclusive full service resort, which is set in the heart of a valley landscape that can best be described as heaven on earth. The design of the nine guest room resort is straightforward elegance. A modern interpretation of Colonial era architecture is reflected in the living areas surrounding a common interior garden courtyard. A deep leathery red earth toned color covers the walls in the resort bar, a choice inspired by the color of an antique Gaucho poncho, a powerful reminder of the bounty and vibrancy of the land as it imparts the same color of the grapes of the Colomé vineyard.

As if the combination of exquisite wine and cuisine served in a surrounding of sheer tranquility is not enough, the next phase of the resort’s plan will be the construction of an adjoining museum to showcase Hess’s world-class art collection. Colomé is a sincere tribute to Hess’s passions in life, wine and art.

A short-cut tip from the folks at Columé shaved an hour off our back road journey to our overnight stay in the very small pueblo of Angastaco. A midnight stroll out of town gave us our first partial view of the stars of the Southern skies.

The next morning we began our journey through Quebrada de las Flechas (Arrows Canyon), a stunning landscape of golden sandstone formations carved out by the Rio Cafayate. Carob trees grace the shores and vast fields of drying red peppers spread out like gaucho’s fire red ponchos. A cross-country detour brought us to the home of the artist couple Rafael and Cecilia. Their 19th century, solar powered hacienda serves as their temporary home and studios while they build their new home a few miles up river. Imagine living in one of Utah’s National Parks with no paved roads or visible neighbors. This is the backdrop for the couple’s artistic creations. Rafael’s ceramics and sculptures and Cecilia’s photography are inspired by the purity of the natural environment that provides not only rich earth for growing their crops but the clay to build the adobe bricks of their new home. After a delicious of lunch of homegrown tomatoes and eggplant empanadas accompanied by a local wine from a vineyard that still crushes the grapes with barefoot power, we were invited to visit Cecilia’s and Rafael's studios. While we made some direct purchases of their work, it is also possible to find their work in art galleries in San Carlos, Cafayate and Salta. Before departing Cecilia led us on a short hike up a small canyon behind their home. Along the way we spotted 1000 year-old pottery chards of the former native inhabitants whose petroglyphs and pictographs also revealed the need to share a visual story of the haunting beauty of the world around them.... more